Non-inversion tillage as a herbicide

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The method is simple, you just break a key rule about using non-inversion tillage. To use it as a herbicide you just use it the "wrong" way and at the "wrong" time and the result is a very effective plant kill.

This can be useful when planting trees, starting a fallow or just to get rid of problem plants. And you can improve your soil conditions and plant growth in following seasons.

However, non-inversion tillage may not be worthwhile as a herbicide for you if:

you can't keep stock and vehicles out of the field to minimize compaction and thus can't prevent the cracks closing up again
weeds in the field would be better dealt with first by grazing, slashing etc, perhaps followed by non-inversion tillage
you will be short of feed soon and may need to graze the field. Non-inversion tillage would be likely to reduce that feed under dry conditions
perennial crops would be too badly damaged by root pruning. Be particularly careful of root pruning on avocados, citrus and other tree crops that are sensitive to root disturbance as well as generally in any perennial orchard, vineyard or plantation.

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What this means

IF

you want to kill all the plants in a particular area

and

you don't mind losing the moisture in the surface soil (at least as far down as you go with your implement)

and

you want to allow for possible greater water infiltration,

then

non-inversion tillage can be useful as a herbicide.

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Using this

You can get a good weed kill if you use non-inversion tillage when

your soils are in a good state to shatter well (not too wet and not too dry soil with enough clay is ideal in many situations)
rain is not likely for some months (or at least a few weeks if the weather is very hot and dry)
you can keep stock and vehicles out of the field to minimize compaction so that the cracks don't close up again.

So non-inversion tillage can be a handy way to start a fallow before a cropping phase when you want to kill off pasture and weeds, open up soil for rain infiltration and loosen soil for better root penetration.

It can work well as a herbicide for tree planting. When the trees are planted into one of the riplines, the weeds (often the pasture that was previously desired but is no longer wanted) have a difficult time competing. If you are planning to water the trees apart from at planting, you can shift your tillage and planting times to get the greatest benefit for the trees.

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Taking this further

Grazing shock has some similar effects if managed well.

Pastures that are rotationally grazed and green manures that are slashed can extend the benefits (think about how this works). One way to make this work is to Return a third to the soil

And Selective grazing shapes your weed and pasture populations whether you like it or not.

If you are looking at a printed version of this page and you would like to visit it on the internet and get a stack of other info that may assist you, the full web address is
http://www.OrganicExchange.com.au/all/fc911111.htm

Related info:

Grazing shock

Non-inversion tillage

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